CARE FOR YOUR NEW FERRET

o It is important that ferrets receive proper dental care because periodontal disease is a frequent condition in this species. A marked accumulation of plaque and tartar is painful and can result in tooth loss.
o Tooth brushing promotes good oral hygiene. However, in order for it to be effective, brushing your ferret’s teeth, as with people, has to be done daily. A small finger brush or tooth brush for animals can be used, along with toothpaste formulated specifically for animals (it is not toxic if swallowed and contains enzymes that continually work through dental plaque in between brushings).
o Because a ferret’s diet is similar to that of cats, high quality feline dental treats can be used to provide proper dental care to ferrets.

o It is important to frequently examine and clean the inner portion of your ferret’s ear. Ferrets normally produce a lot of aural secretions, but they should not be present in excessive amounts. It is generally accepted to do a cleaning at least once every two weeks. The frequency of the cleanings can be increased to once a week as needed.
o Just like dogs and cats, ferrets can develop otitis or have an ear mite infestation. The first symptom observed by owners is excessive scratching of the ears or neck. If this develops, it is important to consult your veterinarian in order to begin treatment.
o If the secretions are accompanied by redness, swelling, or foul odor, you should consult a veterinarian.
o To perform a cleaning, apply a small amount of the cleaning product (for pets) on a cotton ball or tissue and clean the ear with the tip of your finger. Allow your ferret to shake its head and remove the excess liquid with a clean tissue.
o Avoid inserting a swab (Q-tip®) in the ear canal to avoid pushing the secretions further down the canal.

o It is normal to notice the production of clear secretions in the corner of their eye. The secretions can be removed with a wet wipe designed to clean the eyes.
o It is important to observe your ferret for the appearance of redness, swelling, yellowish or greenish secretions, friction or forced closure of the eyelids. You should consult your veterinarian if this occurs.

o Baths can be given once a week or as often as needed. Your ferret’s skin can become dry or damaged if baths are given too frequently. As previously explained, the ferret’s characteristic odor can not be completely removed because of the presence of glands located all over their bodies. An occasional bath and daily cage cleaning, paying particular attention to the litter box, are the best ways to control the ferret’s odor.
o There are a variety of shampoos available that are specific to ferrets. It is important not to use scented products because they can irritate the skin.
o When bathing your ferret, pay special attention to the eyes and ears. Avoid contact of water or shampoo with the face

o Your ferret should always have access to fresh water. Water can be placed in a water bottle or in a bowl. Because ferrets do not understand how the water bottle works right away, it is important to monitor their water consumption during the first few days following their adoption.
o Water should be changed every day and the bowl or water bottle washed daily as well.
o It is best to use a ceramic bowl or one made with a heavy material because ferrets are experts when it comes to flipping their bowls and its contents.

o Like cats, ferrets are strict carnivores. Fruits and other products that are high in sugar should be avoided because they can disrupt the gastrointestinal system. Be careful when giving your ferret treats because they contain a lot of sugar.
o Foods that are specifically designed for ferrets are recommended for maintenance. Choose foods that have a uniform consistency instead of those consisting of granules of different shapes and colors. Meat and/or eggs (cooked and without seasoning) can be added to supplement your ferret’s diet or can be given as treats. In some cases, cat food can be used. We invite you to consult one of our veterinarians to help you choose a food adapted to your ferret.
o Contrary to cats and dogs, ferrets’ do not have to have their food rationed. Because their intestinal transit is very fast, ferrets need access to food at all times or they risk developping low blood sugar (hypoglycemia).
o Bowls made of stainless steel, ceramic, or glass, are highly recommended as they are hypoallergenic and bacterial resistant.

o Cleanliness can be taught to ferrets. Here are some steps to follow :
• Ferrets prefer using corners to defecate and urinate. Place the litter in the corner of a rectangular cage. In order to dissuade your ferret from using the other corners, place objects that he does not want to soil in their place such as: food and water bowls, hiding boxes, hammock, etc.
• Wood shavings or other litter can also be used in this regard. Place blankets or newspaper as a substrate for the rest of the cage.
• If your ferret defecates or urinates outside the litter box, clean the whole cage, but leave a small amount of soiled litter.
• Punishment should be avoided when your ferret has an accident. It is better to encourage them by offering treats when they use the designated area. Persistence is key!
• Make sure a litter box is close when your ferret roams freely. It is recommended to place a litter box in each room or to limit access in the home.
- Claws :

o Begin trimming your ferret’s nails as early possible so they can adapt to it quickly. To begin, cut one nail every day making sure to enthusiastically reward your ferret with a treat each time.
o Gradually increase the number of claws you cut each time and the time between each one until he becomes comfortable with the handling.
o Once he has become used to it, continue to cut the claws regularly, at least once a month, to prevent the quick (vain) from growing too long.

o Since the cage is where your ferret will spend most of it’s time, it should be large enough to hold all of the necessities, while at the same time allowing your ferret to stretch its legs. The cage should contain a litter box, food and water bowl, and hiding spaces.
o The habitat of the ferret's ancestors consisted of a network of burrows. Thus, it is important to recreate the same environment when setting up the cage. Ferrets enjoy different kinds of hiding spaces (tunnels, hammocks, covers, etc).
o The cage should be placed in a fresh area. The ideal temperature is between 15°C and 21°C. Hot temperatures (more than 30°C) should be avoided as ferrets are prone to have heat strokes.

o Being predators by nature, ferrets love to hunt, which can be manifested by biting when they play. It is important to ignore your ferret when he acts this way. A product with a sour taste, such as lemon juice, can be applied to surfaces that you don’t your ferret to ruin (shoes, slippers, feet, hands, etc).
o Small mammals should not be allowed contact with ferrets (birds, rats, rabbits, guinea pigs, etc.) because they are natural prey for ferrets. The presence of a ferret in their environment is also a source of stress for these species. However, cats and dogs can cohabit well with ferrets. Supervision is still recommended.
o Ferrets love to hide and crawl. Be careful with small objects they can easily steal or ingest (ear plugs, headphones, laces, erasers, cat toys, and more).
o It is important to adapt the home environment and block or camouflage any potential hiding places that can be dangerous before the ferret arrives. Make sure all of your furniture has a hard surface underneath, as ferrets can dig holes and ingest the foam. Avoid reclining chairs and be careful with wall-openings.

o Ferrets sleep for most part of the day, usually up to 20 hours a day. However, once awake, they are very active and energetic. It is important to allow your ferret at least 2 hours outside of his cage to play each day.
o A variety of objects can be placed in the room to create a playing area. Offer it boxes, tunnels, hiding places, or even a plastic container with balls to entertain himself. Stringed cat toys can also be used, but any pieces that are can easily be swallowed should be removed (such as feathers for example).
o Avoid toys made out of latex and/or foam.

o Being small, agile, and curious by nature, ferrets can easily escape through an open door and get lost. In order to minimize this risk and prevent this from becoming your situation, we recommend placing a microchip on your ferret. The microchip is electronic and is injected under the skin. It contains all of the pertinent information and contact information to identify your ferret. Should he got lost, he will quickly be identified and returned home.